Skinny Fashion Connoisseur: London Collection Men.

18 Jun

Three days of runway shows and presentation London Collection Men 2015 is over and before we head off to the parisian men shows peruse over my review of my fav shows of London menswear ss15. I enjoy menswear runway shows, it’s like my meditation. I get to tune out the world, become thinspired to update my wardrobe, workout to fit in my upcoming purchases and drool over the craftsmanship of the spectacular garments. I consider myself fashion connoisseur (a skinny one of course) not only because I like clothing but menswear can be stagnant and where once fashion forward men were the sex that took the most fashion risks that fearlessness has been dying in fears of masculinity perception. However, over the past four or five years guys are becoming enthused and daring again. Playing with outrages textiles, alternative silhouettes and mixing all genres. Nothing is off limits. I can appreciate the hard work designers put into giving men more options than jeans, a tee, a grey suit and a pair of chinos. As well as, I can be objective to more than one style of dress even if it’s not mine. Nevertheless, all these collections I would definitely don!

A spring/summer season hasn’t went by without me regonzing Christopher Raeburn. This season is no different, slightly deviating from last season’s “city guy gone camping” motif. This season that same laid back nonchalant stylish outdoors guy is coming back from the boneyard. A military term for a place where they keep old jets and planes. That theme is carried out in this collection with the help of floral fatigue, aviation iron-ons and parachute gear fashioned into outerwear.

As much as I adore fashion like the next skinny fashion connoisseur, it’s too hot to be putting on clothes during the summer. I love me a skimpy tank or dry-fit. I save my ready to wear and suits for winter when its appreciated but mother nature. Ada + Nik hears my sweaty dress shirt cries. The collection sent down reek of neoteric sportswear. With the help of mesh, skirts and sleeveless jackets I applaud how basic this collection is at first glance. But with the design and textile choices this is more than a predominately black sportswear collection. I enjoy how hard some pieces are and how soft others are, giving options for different levels of masculinity.

Continuing with this melancholy student theme of the current summer/spring season CEO and CCO Christopher Bailey is premier designer of London in my opinion. He has taken Burberry Prorsum from coats, umbrellas and bags to a full on spectacle every season to compete with legendary mega fashionable brands like Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Givenchy and Versace. Dropping colorblocking for ombre this collection is all about the art student and his stylish presences as he began his impact on the world. I like the denim jackets, scarf like printed shirts and the fabulous bags. The outerwear is sure to be the money maker of this collection. The coats and scarves alone are a must have.

I like the the New York attitude DKNY brought to London. The sandals and the baseball jersey shirt (a big trend next year) are eye catching elements of this collection. Which quite frankly is the only exciting thing about this collection. Though, I do admire this collection for it’s shape, hues and overall minimalist appeal, I have to admit this could have been save for NYFW this September.

JW Anderson collection was nothing short of artistic and alluring. Of course I’m partial to the midriffs, tank and off the shoulder bedsheet-like tops. Even without reference of a specific time period or genre I still come up with word “vintage” to describe to essense of this collection. The sleeveless sweaters are brilliant tapestry of landscape art, the banded collar shirts art totally painter/poet-esque and the floods of billowy fabric are so fine art/high-end fashion connoisseur. The collection has a certain struggling artist figuring out his sexuality in 40-60’s sensation about it.

E. Tautz love playing with fluidity and volume. This collection like previous season is simply exquisite. Recherché shapes, exquisite shoes and a regal tone down color palette gave this show an ethereal presences. I have everything I need from this collection; toughness in the hardware/pockets/structure, figure forgiveness is the architecture/textiles/lines and contemporary trendiness in the shoes/prints/hues. There’s nothing to like about this collection my fav of the season so far.

Now here’s a collection all the cool kids will be wearing next year. Similar to the fun colorful athletic spring/summer collection by Raf Simons this James Long show is how I want to liven up my summer attire. The fabrics are light, loose fitting but very expressive and rather eclectic. I get a vagabond hipster vibe from the fit. I see a boxing theme in the bags, shorts and hoodies. I see a bit of grunge and late 80’s UK club kid. The caftans are my absolute fav. Not every collection has to be about being dapper and this collection are for those dudes with a more carefree sporty approach to fashion. The outerwear really shines

While other 90’s enthused brands are running out of baggy pants and leather to send down the runway with muscle bound men KTZ have took a new route with the now retro aesthetic. KTZ infused Tribal, Gladiator, Boxing and street into one warrior-esque collection. Some looks may be a bit costume-y but that’s the charm of the collection however, in the midst of the spectacular headpieces, necklaces, SANDALS and body armour I adore and appreciate the details and intricacies that really make these pieces not only wearable but art.

Margaret Howell understands that regular men want high-end clothing too. This collection is simple, subtle and sufficient enough to make the cool dress up and the stuffy dress down. The relaxed but structured cleanly finished silhouettes are a great balance that goes well the the impassive color palette. This easy desirable collection is how I view modern British menswear.

Androgyny is still mode at Matthew Miller. His designs has an eerily romantic deconstructed strength about it. With flower wreaths as necklaces and bracelets to offset the monochromatic of the black the collection is rather pretty. I can’t isolate one aspect of the collection without recognizing the other. From the scraps of fabric combine to make a supremely tailored vest, blazer, pants and shirt to the cleanliness and flowy fabric of the other garment.

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are innovators in this modern fashion age this Opening Ceremony collection is nothing short of their genius. Infusing the youthfulness of trendy current clothing and pushed forward technical know-how to create latex covered cotton outerwear, life like patterns and futurist shoes. This collection is exciting and fashionable. I wish there were a better word for the word ‘cool’ that would include fun, funky, edgy, artsy, laid back and HOT. It’s very rare that a collection can take from the urban and west coast aesthetics and properly add Asian structure and graphics. I have saved the double side zipper bomber and powder blue ensemble to my thinspiration folder.

Fun Fashion Fact: Pringle of Scotland textile were created with iPhone picture that were pixilated for texture and 3-D image printing. Welcome to the future of fashion. Obviously not hurting for cash anymore the brand put the money to good use creating reto snazzy menswear that is indicative of its scottish heritage. The 70’s impression is a calm relief and new approach to what other collections have shown when referencing the era of calm compact clothing. Designer Massimo Nicosia did an awesome job of joining the old with the new.

YMC is how you do utilitarian without relying on jeans and tees. This preppy affection I’m getting from this runway show isn’t groundbreaking in the least but much valued. Something about this collection is flattering to the figure. Like how the shoulders and arms are cut but not tight around the stomach or thighs. Even the outerwear is cinched at the waist. Great for the skinny fat! This is a simple collection that is reliable and clever. I am a fan of the “dumb donald” hat.


7 Responses to “Skinny Fashion Connoisseur: London Collection Men.”

  1. attireclub June 19, 2014 at 2:30 am #

    The left pictures in the CR and Ada+Nick series were the best as well as the Matthew Miller designs!

    • BougieHippie June 19, 2014 at 10:49 am #

      I love effortless cool. its all about the textile in both looks.

  2. J. DuBois June 19, 2014 at 7:02 am #

    great, thanks for sharing sir. feeling the Ada + Nik, Matthew Miller, and Opening Ceremony pieces.

    • BougieHippie June 19, 2014 at 10:49 am #

      For the full shows click the collection’s name. The Mathew Miller shows was lovely

  3. Toastandgrits June 23, 2014 at 12:17 pm #

    Anderson’s line a bit different…but its still cool.

    • BougieHippie June 24, 2014 at 10:09 am #

      I like that it’s not the norm without being outrageous!

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