Bland or Full (deux) #PFW

20 Jan

Paris Menswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014 is over catch up on the last 3 days. I know I started off wanting more, even though I’m not entirely satisfied the designers did give us some more than delectable dessert courses to end the buffet of fashion this season.

Now to hit some lunges and squats as I await New York Fashion Week next month.

Alexandre Mattiussi did his first runway show ever for his AMI collection. Always showing sporty-chic gear for men this time he presented his luxurious creations on a runway of snow. The lush fabric choices are the standouts from two-ply cashmere to an all camel coat and pants ensemble. I enjoy the relativity of these garments the epitome of understated luxury. The masculinity of the layering, tailoring and standard color choices are just what men need for their winter wardrobe.

berluti fw14
The once stuffy dated label now youthful and anticipated, Berluti show is another to do their first runway show. Designer Alessandro Sartori excellently breathe life into this once flat-lining menswear line. A fine cross of Italian tailoring and crisp modern sensibility. The relaxed but structured belted coats are a must have. Another trend for next fall seems to be the camel coat, did I forecast that two months ago ;-)!

cerruti fw14
Cerruti 1881 fall/winter collection is for those men who love the void of color because they rather the construction and craftsmanship do all the talking. What is charming and exciting about this show is how polish each look is in it’s ruggedness. You see caftans, shearling, plaids and awesome cut pants that all play well together and very on trend. The dropped length on the blazers are the cat’s meow (anything to minimize these thighs.)

Dior Homme FW14
“It’s Dior Homme not Dior Hommie” -Kanye West. Kris Van Assche did it again, I thought after the pure ethereal genius of his fall/winter 13 collection for Dior he couldn’t achieve the same success. However, I’m beyond impressed at this elegance meets aviation collection. The blend of traditional pieces like pinstripes and floral along with the denim and fisherman jackets. Dare I say it; shearling will be back after a 3 year hiatus?! Peep the camel coat, obviously I’m obsessed!

I think I’ve found my new aesthetic for this spring even though this is a fall collection from John Galliano. I love fitness and fitness loves me! Add some stellar Parisian fashion to the mix and I promise to never be fat again and look great at it. Just take a gander at the tights and sneakers paired with voluminous sweatshirts and flamboyant raincoat & anoraks. This collection is the jazzercise scene of the 80’s. Thin Hint: a wide brim hat worn with a skinny silhouette makes anyone look thinner.

juun-j fw14
From the power suits of the 80’s right into the futuristic metallic of the 90’s this power hard collection from Juun-J is spectacular. The sizing it perfect the leather is on trend and the edgy is prevalent throughout. There’s a green oversized full-length coat that is simply a skinny phenomenon.

Kenzo fw14
Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim once had to fight to get sweatshirts added to their collection now it’s the highest selling garment and most anticipated of their line. We love Kenzo for it’s minimalist causal sensibility along-with the breathtaking multimedia prints/graphics. This time they showed a more grown-up look of the collection. The styling may be a bit doughty but each piece on their own are lively. The purple number is my favorite.

Lanvin FW14
Another collection to reference the sporty/suits of the 80’s; Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver showed some androgynous utilitarian coat and punk-y suits. A very boyish-rocker collection great for adding fun and color to your fall/winter looks.

Sacai FW14
Designer Chitose Abe presentation for his Sacai collection caught my eye with it’s street-quirkiness. Someone else to add blankets as coats to their fall/winter collection did an excellent job of including everything from varsity jackets, quilting and native shapes/prints to sailor, moto and schoolboy-chic. These are clothing that young stylish everyday guys will surely want to purchase or replicate.

Thom Browne FW14
Always with the eccentric dramatics American designer Thom Browne showed his men’s collection in Paris to vast excitement. This collection grew throughout the show, literally. From animal headdress to exaggerated voluminous shapes. Underneath all the amazing workmanship and designs you still get great menswear and inspiring prints. With classic patterns like window pane and Prince of Whales are great combos for the nicely frame structure of the jackets and pants. The embossed 3-D like prints in second part of the show are incredible. I love when fashion becomes art, may not be wearable but it surely provokes interest.


2 Responses to “Bland or Full (deux) #PFW”

  1. Theodolph L. Mason January 20, 2014 at 2:22 pm #

    I LOVE with Thom. Great input.

  2. sacosha January 21, 2014 at 1:26 am #

    Such great outfits! Wish men would dress-up more often in California.

    P.S. Come join my blog’s giveaway! I’m giving away 2 YSL items :).


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