Have you ever went out to lunch or dinner and had your heart set a certain meal after weeks of depriving yourself only to find that it’s taking your waiter forever to service your table, got your order wrong and when it finally arrive you’re not that excited anymore? Do you find yourself unsure if you enjoyed said meal based on it being really delectable or you being just that hungry from the hype/wait you built up in your head. I could have had an orange.
What New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 have been serving up this season has be nothing short of bland and stale. I was so excited to see what the American designers had to offer being that in my opinion they lead they way for fall/winter men shows. As well as, viewing the offerings from the foreigners’ spring/summer collections during Men’s Fashion Week London, Pairs and Milan I was sure this side of pound would give me my just deserts.
I don’t believe in biting the hand that feeds you so, I’ve sat with some of the collections shown thus far and picked the few that caught my attention. It’s like every designer referenced school boy, some retro time period howbeit 90′s, 80′s or 60′s and layering heavy fabrics in the summertime. I expected new silhouettes, some play with digital graphics or textiles. The foreigners referenced so much of American culture in their spring collections (all american, 90′s hip-hop, skater boy, cowboy and surfers) I just knew that would serve as some inspiration or advantage us Americans.
One could assume that many of the American designers has ran out of steam because I feel as though I’m seeing the same collections from three seasons now. Men fashion is already tough enough being that we get the same looks every season in different colors. Granted spring/summer isn’t the most innovative season there still are ways expand on the standard.
Here are a few that done just that.
The David Hart show was a very neat, new and nice show. I like the whole tourist in Panama, Hawaii or Cuba in the 1960′s feel. Some models wore leis, kelps and cameras. I know I am a bit tired of the retro themed collection but, it’s Hart’s use of colors and materials that I enjoy. The collections is colorful but not in an overbearing way and the materials used (linen, mohair an Hawaiian prints) is what attracts the most attention.
I was more than disappointed at the DKNY men’s presentation but was in awe of the slim picking Donna Karan included with her women’s wear runway. Young sportswear with a nice touch of business casual.
Duckie Brown isn’t afraid of showing something new. Where everyone is reflecting these guys are forecasting. I love the blatant play with femininity however, it isn’t too offensive thanks to the tattooed models, heavy volume of the shapes, standard color pallet and rough textiles. Steven Cox and Daniel Silver know how to have fun with fashion without cracking a smile.
After revisiting this collection I still don’t know why I like this show Siki Im so much. I like to call it penitentiary couture. It’s like everything is makeshift and ripped to fit but effortlessly cool. I find the simpleness in this very serious collection.
Retro-club-kid-school-boy is what reads in this Kenneth Cole show. It has a certain street sexiness about it all the while being flamboyant.
Lacoste at the hands of Felipe Jean Baptiste is just one of those commercial brands that does a very brilliant job of maintaining it’s core aesthetic while constantly evolving with the times. You don’t see any themes, just new takes on traditional men athletics.
Great excitement of the Libertine show. Nothing over the top or gimmicky for shock value, just basic clothing with fun graphics, very so-cal rave.
My favorite aspect of the Nautica show is that they cast all the hottest guys in the industry to walk their runway. I do want a few of the knitted tops, I am impressed how this usually repetitive brand are finding new ways to elaborate on the yachting/boating genre of attire.
No one does summer essentials like Park & Ronen, just know this entire collection require leg presses and squats from now right up into next March.
Richard Chai Love shines best during the spring/summer shows. I wasn’t too much of a fan of the fall/winter; that is all forgotten with the tough but sensitive collection of hybrid motorcycle jackets and sun-bleached color palette.
Short shorts and Birkenstock seems to be the theme for next summer. Trina Turk has a certain panache to be expected and this presentation didn’t fall short.
Shades of Grey went for less of a romantic look with this presentation and more of a mix between relaxed and structured. The youthful line speaks to the easy going fashion crooners of today. The construction and hues are very confined but the fit and wear-ability is nonchalant.